Hitachi Manual (DCAM) Convergence

[kevinw]

Review the instructions carefully before you start. Some newer TV/Remotes do not have the appropriate buttons. Although this has worked many times on many Hitachi TVs, we cannot guarantee that it'll work on yours.

Thanks to Sillygoose for the tweak..


Here are the instructions for how to do a DCAM convergence you don't have to open the TV to do it. This is a
different mode than the service menu. These instructions are mostly from the service manual with some added
comments from a poster on the avs forum.

Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ?stop? screen
4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to DCAM mode and
the service grid (64 point grid)
5) When you first get in here? I believe red is the selected color by default (it is flashing).
6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
a) ?STATUS? - Green
b) ?0? - Red
c) ?ANT? - Blue
7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the
whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you
may want to go back and adjust some red again? etc. until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia DVD to help converge
lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the
red filter next to the green and adjust your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do
the same with the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance. I
did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren?t as good? maybe I just felt like it worked
better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using binoculars. I think it?s great that people
suggest things to make the process easier? but my girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with
binoculars on the couch adjusting the convergence. I don?t know? whatever works best I guess.
8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the location of any green point.
This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.
9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ?S? curve on the line.
You?ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust the line to be converged, the middle of the
line between the points will not straighten out (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends
going to the (7x5) mode which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good, you only fine tune it in
(13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work as:
3x3 - ?coarse?
7x5 - ?medium?
13x9 - ?fine?
10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
1. (3x3) Press ?STATUS? 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press ?0? 5 times
3. (13x9) Press ?ANT? 5 times

Note that the screen looks the same in coarse and fine but that the cursor jumps several lines when you move it.

11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the point? depending on where
you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9
12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ?grids? on the edges of the screen, press the PIP CH button
on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence
as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.
13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is displayed
to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE button again to write
displayed data to ROM.
14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.
15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS
INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS
WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several
windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just
to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly)

Edit by 57U.

For those of you with newer Hitachi models like the S & T500 with different remotes...

...taken from the T500 service manual: assuming your already in the DCAM mode. Follow this exactly and you will reinitialize your magic focus to your new setting. the T and S models are pretty much the same with some added features.

Adjustment procedure
(1) Receive any NTSC signal.
(2) Start adjustment at the center of the screen.
(3) Continue adjustment at next closest position.
(4) Adjust center area first, ending with edge sections.
(5) Press VID3 button to perform calculation operation.
This process will take about 1 second and no picture
will be seen at this time.
(6) After interpolation, check convergence again and
repeat (1)-(5) if necessary.
(7) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE
to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
displayed to alarm system that ROM will be
overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
button again to write displayed data to ROM.
(8 ) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4
seconds and no picture will be displayed.
(9) Green dots will be displayed when operation is
completed.
(10) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then
confirm again convergence is acceptable.
(11) Press PIP MODE (ROM WRITE) mode, then press
SURF to initialize sensor data positions.

For those of you with XXF59 HDTVs, see the following post: Thanks to Ballz2TheWallz

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=26531

[BrettD]

Kevin: I own a 43" WS RPTV from Hitachi and haven't even done an Avia calibration or anything yet, so I'm asking if doing this "external" man. conv. will improve the picture quality of my set!?Ihave a Samsung SIR-T165 HD STB and am not real impressed with the HD broadcasts I'm seeing. PBS looks the best, but not like the awesome display I was expecting. DVDs look pretty darned good. During the Superbowl, half the game clock was cut off and part of the field and players as well.
I'm willing to try this manual convergence to help out my Hitachi ! Can I easily screw anything up that I won't be able to correct myself? I printed out the procedure you posted and will adhere to it to the letter!

[kevinw]

Brett I recomend the Avia or similar first, then the convergence. I am not as up to speed with Hitachi brands as 57U is but the basics are the same for all RP tvs. Make sure you have all your user settings like color contrast and the such set properly. Then do the convergence.
By the way the cutoff scoreboard was quite common for those who did not view the Supebowl in the native 720p that it was broadcast in.
When you do any service mode work BE CAREFULL, one mi**** button could mess up everything. make sure to write down any setting as you start.

[BrettD]

Kevin: Roger on the Avia calibration to be done first before the convergence procedure! How long should a properly done Avia calibration take. Would it best be done on the weekend when I could take my time?
Thanks for your help, Kevin!

[57U]

It's best to watch the AVIA DVD just like an interesting movie on one night and then go back on the second and do all the settings. It takes about 1 hour to watch and 1 hour to calibrate the video, more if you're also going to do audio calibration (good for surround systems).

Remember that TVs tend to "drift" and you should recalibrate them every 6 months to a year. This should only take about 10-15 minutes since you've done it all before and the differences won't be as large as when you started from scratch.

[BrettD]

O.k., I am game for the mere two hours or so it takes to use the Avia DVD to make adjustments to my Hitachi RPTV. Is there info. on this forum as to exactly what I would be adjusting? Is it a means of determining which levels each (not counting auto settings,as these are already turned OFF) of the user settings shouls be set at?
I also saw on another thread how to easily and inexpensively moderate "red push" w/o going into the service menu through the use of a 1000mHz, 3dB attenuator connected in series with the red component video cable! I hate the neon red on my set, so I will probably give this a try. Then maybe I can tackle the manual convergence thing after the Avia DVD setup.

[sillygoose]

Originally posted by BrettD
I also saw on another thread how to easily and inexpensively moderate "red push" w/o going into the service menu through the use of a 1000mHz, 3dB attenuator connected in series with the red component video cable! I hate the neon red on my set, so I will probably give this a try. Then maybe I can tackle the manual convergence thing after the Avia DVD setup.

I have heard of this fix but it seems odd to me that you would want to use that when you could just change your color decoder settings, that's what they are for. Just write down your original settings and there is no problem.

[BrettD]

If you could tell me what I have to do to enter the service mode of my 42UWX10B Hitachi HD Monitor, we could go places! Rectifying the red push would be tops on my list of calibrations to do. I would DEFINITELY write down preexisting setting values at the outset. I am technically-minded by nature and don't see a problem with my attempting (doing) adjustments. However, I always like to know enough to feel comfortable beforehand. We read a lot of "horror stories" of people jazzing things up and then needing to call the ISF Tech to undo the permanent damage(?) they had caused. Perhaps 57U can help, he has a Hitachi RPTV tweaked to the max!
Thanks for your interest in my situation!:eek:

[sillygoose]

Originally posted by BrettD
If you could tell me what I have to do to enter the service mode of my 42UWX10B Hitachi HD Monitor, we could go places! ...

Well I can tell you how it works on my 65SWX20b which I think applies to all the 20b models and may work for you or not.

To enter the service menu turn off the tv then press the input button on the front panel and hold it down until you press the power button then release both.

To get to the ISF menu scroll up (its faster than going down) to the ISF item and then go right to enter it.

To correct red push you want to scroll down to the RY, R/B,GY,and G/B settings. Use avia or ve color setting screens to calibrate these setting. You need to do the blue level before doing this. You can use the RGBOUT setting to turn on just one CRT at a time instead of using the color filters that come with avia.

[halb]

Since I signed up and paid for a service contract that is supposed to incude one free onsite tech adjustment per year, is it worth it to have someone come out to do this rather than just use the Magic one-button adjustment?

Your instructions are just a bit too overwhelming for me to try it myself.

[sillygoose]

Originally posted by halb
Since I signed up and paid for a service contract that is supposed to incude one free onsite tech adjustment per year, is it worth it to have someone come out to do this rather than just use the Magic one-button adjustment?

Your instructions are just a bit too overwhelming for me to try it myself.

Maybe. You might check to see how far off your convergence is by entering the user menu manual convergence and seeing what it looks like. If it looks pretty close to accurate than maybe you should wait until it gets worse before you bother having someone out to do it. The convergence will drift over time.

[4x4TX]

Ok..someone start from the beginning or show me where to read..what the hell is convergence and this avia? Is it an adjustment that has to be done periodically or once a month or what? Help!

[4x4TX]

Ok..someone start from the beginning or show me where to read..what the hell is convergence and this avia? Is it an adjustment that has to be done periodically or once a month or what? Help!

[kevinw]

GO to FAQ's and start from the top.
Convergence is aligning the Green,Red and Blue Guns of a RPTV.
Avia is a Tuneup disc needed to properly adjust user controls like contrast,brightness, color among others.

[hanoverheel]

Does anyone know how to get to the manual convergence on the Hitachi 53FDX01B? I can get into the service menu but from there I can't figure out how to do the manual convergence. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks

[halb]

Having read the instructions on this page, I too decided to getting some of my money's worth from the Circuit City 3 year service contract. Since for the first year and a half we didn't even have HiDef I didn't notice anything, but when we got it I wanted to be sure I was getting the best possible picture even though what I was seeing was damn good.

All I noticed was a very thin red line on the top and a similar green line on the bottom. I thought this might mean it needed an adjustment even though nothing was visible on the actual picture.

When I called Circuit City they said they no longer did service themselves, that they contracted with various tech companies. Furthermore, although the saleman had assured me that the contract would pay for one onsite tech visit for manual convergence, he said the contract did not allow this. Reminder: get it in writing next time!

They were about to put me off when I told them about the "terrible" red and green lines and insisted it was ruining the viewing experience, plus, I forgot to mention a problem with the TV's sound (true but it was not a problem for me since the jacks to the external sound system worked fine). So they agreed to give me the number of the tech service.

When the tech came out I showed him the red and green lines and he told me no big deal, it didn't need a manual convergence. What should I believe? Maybe he wrote up a second work order saying he did the manual convergence and got paid for doing nothing. Or maybe it didn't really need it.

On the sound, it was indeed broken, but he said he'd have to take the entire set back to the shop to fix it. Forget that!

I don't trust anyone anymore if there's money involved.

[57U]

Originally posted by hanoverheel Does anyone know how to get to the manual convergence on the Hitachi 53FDX01B? I can get into the service menu but from there I can't figure out how to do the manual convergence... I'm not sure if your TV works the same way, but if you read the instructions in the first post, you'll see that you don't go into the service menu..

If you are not able to follow instructions exactly, you may not want to venture into the service modes, or the DCAM convergence.;)

[hanoverheel]

I would follow the instructions in the first post if I had a Magic Focus on my TV. I have a convergence button that lets me align to the center of the screen but I still have ghost images around the edges. I called Hitachi to find the closet certified service center to have them come out and do it, but they told me I was out of there service area. I guess I have to do it myself.

[57U]

Check out this site...

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/hitachi/hitachi_tips.html

[bjn]

When doing the DCAM convergence on a 57s500 you might want to try hitting the menu button. I was playing around and found out it gives you a couple of different modes that might be useful.

BJN

[gross67]

Hello all....

I'm so glad to have found this site. I have been having problems with a new Hitachi 51G500 and will soon have the blue gun replaced. My telivision is certainly watchable but the blue gun flickers from time to time and it looks quite bad. However, I found this thread and followed the steps in the first post and, sure enough, the blue was a bit messy. I am watching Harry Potter on MAXHD (VOOM) at the moment and the tune up worked like a charm it looks terrific. I'm adding this site to my favorites list. I hope I can add to this post in the future.....

Cheers,

James

PS - The process was painless but took some squinting and a little getting used to - very good directions.

[bokonon]

Does anyone know how to do manual convergence on the 43fdx20b television?

[57U]

The procedure should be the same. Have you tried the instructions in the first post of this thread?

[bokonon]

When I hit magic focus a second time to get to the stop screen, it just goes back to the picture. I absolutely cannot get to a stop screen. I actually tried that before I ever came to the forum. Is there another way I can do it?

[57U]

hmm, I don't know of another way. Make sure you hit the button the second time relatively quickly - you may want to vary the length of time between presses to see if you can get it to work. Make sure you're receiving an NTSC signal (regular SD channel - I'm not sure it matters, but that's what the instructions say)

[bokonon]

Well, that didn't work. I'm unplugging it for half an hour right now to see what that might do. Then, I'm just going to go all out and try every combination possible. Either I figure it out or I'll have to get a service guy out one way or another.

[sillygoose]

Well, that didn't work. I'm unplugging it for half an hour right now to see what that might do. Then, I'm just going to go all out and try every combination possible. Either I figure it out or I'll have to get a service guy out one way or another.

You might be able to get your answer if you can find a service manual for you model. I have one for mine but that obviously won't help you.

[bokonon]

I've been looking everywhere for one. Any ideas on how to obtain one?

[57U]

If you bought it from a place that also does Hitachi service, contact them and they should be able to order it for you, or find a place that does Hitachi service and do the same. I paid C$30 for my service manual right when I bought the TV.

If that's the only information you need, call or e-mail the service center and get the "code" for your TV, sometimes a helpful technician will supply that kind of information. You could also try e-mailing Hitachi if that's all you want.

[sglfladad]

I've gone through all the manual convergence steps which definately resulted in a better picture.

I don't know if this is something to take a look at or not though. During the manual convergence process, as you get farther away from the center of the screen, the convergence points get very out of focus. No way for me to focus them better. There is also, significant pincushioning at the vertical edges. I did the best I could aligning blue and red to green at the edges, but the focus bothers me. Is this normal?

[57U]

If you're doing the DCAM convergence as mentioned in the first post, you need to go to a courser "grid" (Medium usually does a good job) as indicated in steps 9-10 and do the best you can there, then go back to the fine settings and do the best you can.

It is true that you cannot get the edges "perfect" (about the last 1" or so) sometimes...

If you're doing the manual user convergence, I can't help you, since my TV doesn't do it.

To get rid of the pincushion, in the DCAM, you need to straighten all the lines (all 3, by straightening one colour and alligning the other colours to it. I believe it's best to start with green and then align red/blue to it.), either with an "overlay" pattern, or some sort of straight-edge.

[bokonon]

I got a service manual, but it's confusing the **** out of me. The directions seem a bit incomplete. Perhaps someone can clear up some terminology for me. Help me with the following terms

"service only switch" on the "CONV./ FOCUS PWB"
"jig screen"

If someone can help me with those terms, that would clear up a lot. It says to install a jig screen, but I have no idea what that means. Perhaps I am entirely screwed.

[57U]

A jig screen is probably an "overlay", which indicates where the convergence lines are supposed to be located. The other item seems to refer to a switch on a circuit board.

[Ratman]

PWB = Printed Wiring Board
or also referred to as
PCB = Printed Circuit Board

[sillygoose]

As ratman said that is referring to a switch on a board inside the tv. Hopefully your manual has diagram indicating where it is located. For mine I had to open up the front of the bottom cabinet to get to it.

[bokonon]

thank you so much, you guys have been a big help.

[cmslick3]

I haven't read all of this thread but it IS possible to make your edges perfect and get the overscan even all the way around, it takes some time and you must have an overlay(of some kind) and a metric tape measure but it is possible.

My tv whigged out over the weekend, and with the help of another forums moderator, I used this procedure to get it fixed:

After resetting the DCAM (hold blue button while power on) and before adjusting trim pots you need to check the following:

Using centering magnets, very top set of 2. (PG.86 in SM for xxS500)

(PG.69 in SM for specs below)
Horizontal lines should match on center line for all colors.
Vertical centers should be:
Green: Centered to jig, center of screen
Red: 20mm left of center
Blue: 25mm right of center

Now adjust trim pots as indicated here:
http://homecentric.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=291

From here you match the green to the overlay, then red and blue to green. This is the tedious part (3 hours) but believe me if you invest the time as I did you will enjoy the results. Once your happy everything is straight as possible make sure you save to ROM and initialize "magic focus" detailed at the end of the above link.

[snowcrash]

Sorry if this is stupid, I have a 50V500A Hitachi and I don't have a Magic Focus button on my tv... How can I do a manual convergence?

[57U]

You have an LCD-based RPTV, they don't need convergence. See the FAQ on Types of HDTV. Since no questions are stupid, what were your reasons for buying this TV?

[snowcrash]

Seeing it at Circuit City, it looked great. I picked it up for $2200 with a free 2yr extended warranty. I don't have HD yet, but my digital cable looks terrible on it. It almost looks like the signal is coming through an antanae. I'm going to call a service tech to see if that's how it's supposed to be or if something is wrong with the TV. Can you think of anything?

[57U]

Check out the FAQ "What you need to do to your new HDTV". If you change the settings, the cable PQ can sometimes improve.

Many cable companies have low signal strength, which can make the analogue channels look poor. The digitals can also be poor if there's a lot of compression. Find the best station for PQ and ask for them all to look like that.

Also, if you see a lot of variation from Channel to channel, you know it's not the TV's fault.

[snowcrash]

I have Avia on the way. Comcast is my cable company. The quality is pretty bad on all the channels. I setup an appointment for a technician so I'll find out if it's supposed to be this way or if something is wrong. Thanks for your help.

[Lampini]

:sobbing: 7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the
whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you
may want to go back and adjust some red again? etc. until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).

Okay, I got to that point and found the grid. I see flashing, dashed red and green lines in the center lines of the grid. I can move these up, down, left and right using the 4, 6, 2, and 5 buttons. But, what should I be attempting to accomplish? What determines where I want to move the lines? Is there something I'm missing?

I'm afraid I may be screwing something up. If the red/green flashing dashes are in the center, does that mean the convergence is already where is should be?

Also, if I end up doing it wrong, can I UNDO it?

Help!

[57U]

If the lines are relatively straight, you align two of the colours to the third (one at a time) typically red and blue.

If the lines are not straight or in the proper position, you first need to straighten one colour and then move the two other colours to the first one. You'll typically need an "overlay" to do this properly, or use a "straightedge" if they look OK.

Most people find the grid "good enough" and simply move the points that have colour fringing to the "white" position. If, however, the lines end up curved, you have more work to do. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, have a professional do it.

[Marco in HD]

"DCM has to be in uncorrected state"

Sounds to me you have to start from the begining with a total bent up convergence grid cause, I can't access the 3X3 or 7X5 state from the regular convergence screen.

I have the manual but no matter how many times I hit "ant" or "0" I get zip. Evey once in a while the screen will blink but the grid never changes.

[57U]

The grid doesn't change, but the movement of the cursor does - it "skips" a line if I recall correctly.

[Marco in HD]

The grid doesn't change, but the movement of the cursor does - it "skips" a line if I recall correctly.

(slaps forehead) Doh!

[Johnboat]

I just got the Hitachi 51F510m has any one tried this on this model? If not what is the best way to do this on the 51F510?

[57U]

I believe that this model has different buttons on the remote, therefore the instructions may not work and you may actually need another programmable remote that can download the appropriate codes to do it. (I'm going from memory and someone with this TV should be able to advise better)

[Johnboat]

Well last night I found the options to do manual convegence. I have 3 options and those would be Magic Focus, 9 point manual convegence, and 117 point. I have read that doing the 117 point one is well worth the effort, the only thing is I don't know what the heck I'm doing. I have a white grid and these = like signs and when I hit a button on my remote they = like sign changes colors from white, to red, and then to blue. What do I do with these?

[57U]

Once you change the colour, you move the "=" (using the cursor) so that the colour appears directly on top of the white line (no colour fringing). You do this for all of the various points on the screen for the red and blue CRTs. The instructions are in the operating manual after "magic focus".

This is the "user convergence". the DCAM convergence is a service convergence and lets you do the green CRT also, and the information is saved to ROM as previously discussed in this thread.

The user convergence is not saved to ROM, I believe, so don't touch magic focus after doing a user convergence. This is recommended for all manual convergence - don't touch magic focus afterward.

[Johnboat]

Ok thank you. I have one more question. I may be paranoid but when I was doing that last night I noticed the white color looked crisp, the red color looked crisp, but the blue color looked blurry. Should I be worried or do I just need to make adjustments? :headscrat

[57U]

The blue colour is often difficult to focus. The only way to change this is if you open up the TV and adjust the electronic focus, or mechanically focus the CRT itself. This is not recommended for novices.

[Johnboat]

Ok. Yeah I'll leave that alone.

[idave03]

What about the manual convergance 117 point thats included in the regular user menu on a 57F510? Is that any good? is thi procedure better? thx

[57U]

The user convergence is just fine, provided it does what you want it to since it only does 2 out of three colours and the convergence is not saved to ROM, so don't press magic focus once you've done the user convergence.

[joebbaseball]

I have been reading this thread, along w/others dealing w/red push. I have a hitachi 46F500 and for the past month or so the colors seem way off. There seems to be a red tint to everything, especially the sd signal. I know this is a stupid question but I am lost when I try the man. conv. All that comes up is the grid, from there I have no idea what to do. I am even doing the right thing to adjust the red push? if so how do I do this? On a side note the tv is 14 months old. I called hitachi and they said they could send someone out since its close to the year warranty but since I got it at sears they handle the entire warranty. Called sears and they said too bad. 110 bucks to just come out and take a look. Anyway, sorry for the ramble if anyone can help, i'd really appreciate it.
thanks all for responding!
Joe B

[cnyreject]

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to using the 117 manual convergence that is availible via the main menu of my Hitachi 57F510 over the DCAM 64 point manual convergence described in the beginning of this thread?

[57U]

In the DCAM you can do all three colours and the settings get saved to ROM. I believe this is discussed earlier in this thread, or in the DCAM thread, but it's quicker for me to simply restate it.

[cnyreject]

Thanks 57U. But then what is the function of the 117 manual convergence? Is the problem that it is NOT saved to ROM? Or no 3 color alignment? Or, both?

[57U]

The user one is designed so that anyone can use it, not screw up and if they do screw up, simply press magic focus and they'll be in operation again.

[cnyreject]

Dah!!! :coffee:
If I would only read ... I might not have to ask stupid questions! Ignore me 57U having a bad hair day. :)

Me see Post 55 now

[clay30286]

OK I am new to all of this but I hope that some of you experts can tell me what to do. I have a Hitachi 53udx10B. This weekend I was watching it and something happened to the green colors. What it looks like is red and blue are together but the green is a half inch or so to the right of the other colors. I have tried playing with the convergence. When I pull up the grid, the top and bottom green rows are shifted way out of line, they are bent. They will not move anywhere near straight and they wiggle or move around. I hit a button (don't remember which one) while in the service menu that brought the grid up in a single + shape. Red and blue were OK but the green is arched and moving at the top and bottom. I don't know all of the terminology but if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

[57U]

It sounds like you may be best served by calling for service.

[clay30286]

I was afraid I would hear that. I just did not want to do it and the guy come out and turn a knob and fix it

[57U]

Had that been the case, I certainly would have offered suggestions, but it sounds more like something gone wrong in the convergence board, if you can't get the green to line up.

I just re-read your original post - I'm not sure if you actually tried a manual convergence. See the first post in this thread - you may wish to try that before calling for service. Not sure if that'll help in light of the recent "shift" of the green colour.

If it does turn out to be a "knob-turn", let us know, but I won't pay your bill. ;)

[kevinw]

Thanks 57U. But then what is the function of the 117 manual convergence? Is the problem that it is NOT saved to ROM? Or no 3 color alignment? Or, both?
Green is always the baseline that all geometry is set with. Then R/B are matched to the green.
In service mode it is assumed most people are using a template,grid or some type of system to ensure straight lines with Green CRT.
In normal user mode people would not touch or have access to the Green control.

[clay30286]

I did try the manual convergence, but the green would not straighten out. I just ordered the Service manual. I am thinking when I get that I can probably isolate the actual bad part(s) and sears appears to have almost every part under the sun for it.

[clay30286]

I managed to dump and reinitialize the memory last night with the service manual. It helped a whole bunch. It took the hard bends out of the top and bottom of the green convergence grid. Now the green convergence grid just has a hard pinch at the bottom and top. I aligned the red and blue to match the pinched green grid and the picture would now look normal to anyone not looking for a problem. I just can not find the adjustment to take that pinch out. Pinch looks something like the attached file. Anyone know how to adjust this out?

[57U]

Could you not straighten the green lines in the DCAM convergence? The green lines should be straight first, then allign the R&B to that line.

[clay30286]

If you try and straighten the lines, you end up pulling the line so far in that direction that the lines start shaking or just scramble up. I missed the other post under hitachi regarding bad convergence amplifier chips until today. Though his problem was blue, my problem is the same with the green (even down to the magic focus hanging on the green, jumping around on the green and the 4 error code at bottom right). I feel 99.99999% certain that replacing these chips is going to be the problem solver. I even found many other messages on onther boards with the same problem and most stated that 3 - 5 years was the lifespan on these two chips. Also explains why the repair shop I called yesterday seemed to know exactly what it was. I am going to try replacing the chips at 5.00 each before I spend hundreds. I will definately post the results. Now I just need to decide if I want to order them online or call the shop from yesterday and see what he will sell me 2 chips for!

[57U]

OK, did you try doing the adjustment using the "coarse" or "medium" adjustment? The "fine" adjustment often causes problems like "S-curves", etc.

You are probably correct that the chips are the problem.. Just wondering...

[clay30286]

I tried all three adjustments even the 3X3. Even when you save to rom and get the green dot pattern indicating success, there is a sag at the top of the pattern. Others have described it as a color shift. I think in addtion to the pinch effect, it is pulled as a whole off to the right side.

[clay30286]

I ordered and replaced the two IC chips. This fixed my jittery green but it left the green and red convergence grids bent and they were then not adjustable at all (would not move). On a hunch, I swapped one old IC with a new thinking I may have gotten a defective one. Sure enough the grid become much more geometric and I was able to make them geometric and then do a good convergence. It did have two faint horizontal lines at the top but I thought I could probably live with it. 12 hours later some of the colors have shifted again and I am now ready to trash it.

[mia anne]

Ok life is not good right now! I have a Hitachi Ultravision 53UWX10B. I started to have red wiggly lines going through it. I called a local repair man and he quoted me $350.00 and stated there was a problem with the red convergence??? He took out a part came back and replaced it, he moved lines within a grid (which I now know is dcam) still not fixed. 3 seperate days he worked on it. Finally I said forget it for now because I have company visiting. I asked him to put it back how it was and I will worry about it later. He told me he's never seen anything like this????? Ok here goes.

The picture is much worse. I now have red, green, and blue distortion. Instead of magic focus I had + signs (all distorted). So I find out how to get magic focus back, then I find out how to get into dcam, how to work with a smaller grid, and bam- the green grid is far from straight. Sooooo I try to allign the green grid. Ok it looks good. I move to the red and I have mega curved moving lines - looks like a laser light show! While trying to work with the red my TV totally goes out and the little red power light on the tv itself is blinking. I look into the guts of the TV and a blue light is rapidly blinking. I turned off the tv, un plugged it, moved it out of the living room. And set up my 20 inch bedroom tv in the living room and cried and cried and cried..

What now? What might the damage be???? How much can I expect to pay to have the set repaired?????

I am resolved to never touch it again- and lesson learned is that I will only use a Hitachi certified repair man to fix this set!! Praying my set is not fried!

Please Help ;``( Also where can I find an overlay grid to adjust the green to in the future.

[edi1nxj]

To all,

I need to find used parts or cheaper parts for the entire convergence board on the Hitachi. The Hitachi parts distributor is charging close to $400 without shipping. Any ideas on used parts or somewhere less expensive. I have had a service repair shop take a look at it and he tried replacing the STK's with no luck. He wants $600 to fix it. I have the manual for the convergence but the blue is totally out of wack (so bad that it looks like a oscilliscope (sp?) in 13X9 mode.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks :)

[nikwax]

:usa1: I was wondering what settings on my video menu is best for my Hitachi 51F510 without having to get into the service manual mode?? So I can get the best picture for watching DVD's, Digital Satellite, and VCR movies. Thanks please if anyone can help, would be greatly appreciated.

[57U]

nikwax, you're hijacking this thread which is about convergence, not settings. Please post your question as a new thread, or look at the many other threads that have already asked a similar question.

Also see the HDTV FAQ "What you need to do to your new HDTV".

[sweeperman]

How do you get magic focus to go to the stop screen? I have pressed everything on the controller.

Sweeperman

[Marco in HD]

Top Screen?

[sweeperman]

The istructions for manual convergance say to stop magic focus after you start it. I can't do that. What button do I press?

Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ?STOP? screen...

[illegitimati]

Help! My 61SWX12B's blue suddenly shifted on me. I tried the DCAM procedure as outlined above but I could not get the blue to shift horizontaly. I have no problems moving the blue vertically. I also do not have any problems moving the red. Then I tried to save (with the blue off on the horizontal axis) and I get an "over flow" error.
What can I do? Will I need to adjust the rings on the blue gun?

[57U]

You may have a blown IC or resistor. There are several threads on this subject in the Hitachi forum. If you're handy, you can replace this stuff yourself. If not, time to call service, but you may wish to give them the heads up regarding the ICs, resistors, etc.

[mcfly2050]

Where in the heck is the "Status" button to fix the greens? I don't see it on my 43fdx01b remote. Please help.

[illegitimati]

Wow, ordered my ICs last Friday and I installed them just yesterday with three resistors (r58,r50 and r54). I did not need to remove the heat sink off the board. The most difficult part of the task was the removal of the ICs from the heat sink. I used a paring knife to get behind the IC and popped them. Once I had the parts installed, I proceeded with the DCAM. However, I was disheartened at first because the picture was much worse than before I replaced the board and I could not get the magic focus to work. After a little troubleshooting I discovered that one of the jumpers from a neighboring board was not totally inserted. I then returned to DCAM and this time the procedure went flawlessy. Thank you all who contributed to this thread.

[illegitimati]

Well, my elation was short lived. I was watching Alexander tonight and 5 minutes into the movie my screen goes blank and I hear a pulsating sound. I shut my tv off and after a few minutes I push the power button and still the same thing...blank screen and a high pulsating sound. I open the back and see two leds (dp 35 and dp 11) blinking. Does this mean that I may have some bad ICs still? I seem to have read in other threads that somebody had the same conditions and replaced the ICs again. I will install the remaining ICs I have on hand and if this doesn't fix it, I will make it my purpose in life to convince people to never buy a Hitachi projection TV.

[illegitimati]

:shootout: Thank you again for all those who suggested I purchase 4 ICs. I installed them today and my tv is working again. I believe the failures of newly installed ICs are attributed to excessive heat applied to the ICs when soldering their pins. Extreme care should be taken when installing these ICs.
1. Insure that the holes on the circuit board are clean.
2. Apply thermal heat transfer paste to the back of the ICs.
3. Make sure your soldering iron is hot.
4. Add a dab of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in the heat transfer.
5. Work quickly. Donot add heat too long on the pins. Do not touch the adjacent pins of the ICs with your iron. If you notice a bad joint, return to it after the last pin is soldered to give the circuits attached to this particular pin time to cool down.

After the installation of the ICs, I again performed the DCAM. I initally had great difficulty converging the grid. At one point, I had red "S"s all over the grid. I then pressed the Status button 5 times to get into the medium adjustment mode. I thought I was not in that mode because I did not see the grid change. So I pushed the Status button again that took me back to the original grid. After another hour of frustration, I tried the medium adjustment mode and by accident noticed that the target point was moving by two grids at a time. Working at this mode I was able to correct my convergence problem.

My TV is has been on today for the last 11 hours now to test it and the picture is great.

Thank you all.

[gaustin]

I have read the entire thread - maybe even the entire site and I following the DCAM directions to a T and when I tried to exit and write the the ROM I received an "OVERDFLOW!" message. I went back and forth between adjusting and trying to write to ROM but it was an endless loop. Finally I just shut off and of course I can't get back into the manual convergence and I don't have magic focus. Any suggestions?

Gina :sobbing:

[57U]

What's the model number of your TV?

Do you have the "static" convergence? The 9 points?

If so, you have to go inside your TV and press the "little blue button" to reset it.

The Procedure is described over on the Keohi HDTV site.

[gaustin]

Yes, I only have the 9 pt. I have opened up the TV and have found "the little blue button" just not sure if i press it when the TV is on or off. I will try the other site.
Thanks :stuckthum

[gaustin]

Well, I have been trying to manually change the convergence blue alignment was way off. The blue lines arc's above the mid point were heading down and the arc's from below mid point were heading up. I can't get the lines to come even close. Any suggestions?

[57U]

If the lines are "way off" then the convergence ICs may be shot. See the sticky in the Hitachi forum on Convergence Problems.

[af136]

Your post said to Receive an NTSC signal what is this?? Then to push lMagic Focus on the R/C, my R/C(CLU-5713TSI) doesn't have this. How can I get to the service grid? The TV does have a auto Convergence and you can manual adj but when you are in this the red seems to be the only thing I can adjust. Also the grid is only two lines one vertical and one horizontal. Any help with getting started here. thanks.

[57U]

An NTSC signal is any analogue channel via antenna or cable. The magic focus button is not on the R/C, it's on the TV. You may want to re-read those instructions, more carefully this time.

[af136]

I still can't find what the magic focus buton is or where unless the thread means the little blue button inside the front panel?? I might not be on the right thread is this convergence adj good for a Hitachi 43FDX01B?

[57U]

It may not be good for your TV... Is there no magic focus button on the TV itself inside the front panel?

[af136]

It may not be good for your TV... Is there no magic focus button on the TV itself inside the front panel?

Then what okay can you help me out with this Convergence problem???

[Ratman]

If so, you have to go inside your TV and press the "little blue button" to reset it.

...unless the thread means the little blue button inside the front panel??

Is there no magic focus button on the TV itself inside the front panel?

Do you or do you not a 'a little blue button'?

[57U]

... and a magic focus button on the front panel of the TV. To get out of the static mode, you will need to find the little blue button. To get into the DCAM mode, you will need to use the magic focus button and the procedure outlined in post 1 of this thread.

This procedure may not work for all Hitachi CRT models...

[soulshocker]

Hi, I have these same convergence issues and I will be ordering semi conductors. I plan on performing the surgery on my tv but what i would like to know is that do I need the factory R/C that comes with the tv? I dont have the original remote, but i do have one of the universal remotes. Any insights, suggestions, or opinions? thanks in advance.

[57U]

If the universal remote has been programmed with all of the pertinent buttons, then you should be OK, however, review the buttons you require to see if you have anything "missing".

For example: PiP mode, PiP channel, Mute, etc.

[myth]

hello TV gurus,

I need your help since my red gun is out of allignment. I am trying to do the manual convergence adjustment and i have the following problems. :headb:

First issue is in Point #7 posted by Kevin. If i try to work from the center and work my way out to the right side, the center can be alligned but all my other red lines forms an "s" and goes in funny directions and way out of allignment from the green line.

So I thought i should go the pattern 3X3, 7X5 and work it to the 13X9 pattern so that the ajustment would be easier but can not go to the 3x3 pattern by pressing "status" 5 times

The question is when I allign the grid at one point and the red line on top or bottom goes funny..(say more to the right side), the thumbstick cannot be moved to the left to bring it in line. The thumbstick moves only up, down and right but not left...u think some coffee drop froze in my thumbstick button of r/c and my remote is bad? Or do you think i have some major problem with the IC..?

Thanks guys..regards, Myth.




[QUOTE=kevinw]Review the instructions carefully before you start. Some newer TV/Remotes do not have the appropriate buttons. Although this has worked many times on many Hitachi TVs, we cannot guarantee that it'll work on yours.

[Lone Ranger]

Have a 51F59, about 100 hours on the set. Noticed that on the grid for user 117 point convergence, on the right side of grid you can see green lines coming out from under the white curving upwards maybe half a centimeter or so as they go off the edge of the screen.

Question: if I can see green lines coming out from under the white, more than just green fringing, does this mean a DCAM alignment of green might be a good idea? :headscrat

The picture looks quite sharp with good clarity and detail, so I don't think this green alignment is causing much of a PQ issue. I should note that this is with an SD analog cable TV feed, I don't have HD yet. But SD cable looks really good on this set, very clear (but I have a clean/strong signal). :cool:

[57U]

does this mean a DCAM alignment of green might be a good idea?
It's never a bad idea to do a DCAM convergence, however, if you're not comfortable doing it and are happy with the picture, then you may wish to leave it alone.

If you decide to do a DCAM, here are a couple of tips.

1. Start with the "medium" not the "fine" setting (the cursor skips a line on the grid)

2. There is a "special" tool listed that allows for "final" edge convergence. I found this useful.

[Lone Ranger]

Thx 57U, I would be comfortable aligning red and blue to green but for aligning green in DCAM I wouldn't be comfortable unless I had a mylar template to use as a guide since green is the anchor or base color the others reference off of.

[Lone Ranger]

I did the DCAM, but I've got a few questions if you have the time to help me.

How do you get to the special tool for final edge enhancement?

I did the 7x5 mode 1st for red and blue, then the 13x9 for red and blue. I still seem to have caused some mild s-curves. Any way to get rid of them?

The guide in this thread refers to a "coarse" 3x3 mode in DCAM. How do you get into 3x3 mode (coarse), and is it a good idea to do 3x3 before 7x5?




If you decide to do a DCAM, here are a couple of tips.

1. Start with the "medium" not the "fine" setting (the cursor skips a line on the grid)

2. There is a "special" tool listed that allows for "final" edge convergence. I found this useful.

[57U]

1. How do you get to the special tool for final edge enhancement?

2. The guide in this thread refers to a "coarse" 3x3 mode in DCAM. How do you get into 3x3 mode (coarse), and

3. is it a good idea to do 3x3 before 7x5?1. Read step 12 in post 1.

2. Read step 10(1) in post 1.

3. Sure, I've not found it necessary myself, however, get the course settings right first, then the medium and then you shouldn't get any "S" in the fine, except for perhaps a mild "flip" at the end of the line.

[Lone Ranger]

1. Read step 12 in post 1.

2. Read step 10(1) in post 1.

3. Sure, I've not found it necessary myself, however, get the course settings right first, then the medium and then you shouldn't get any "S" in the fine, except for perhaps a mild "flip" at the end of the line.

The buttons on the remote for my Hitachi 51F59 are different than those referred to in the mentioned steps. I suspect there to be equivalents, however, since ASPECT on my remote most certainaly is the equivalent in function for DCAM mode as ANT. But as for the PIP buttons I don't know.

[gsoundinc]

I have done everything to the T of the instructions. I press pip mode then pip mode then mute then pip mode then pip ch it does it's thing for about 15 seconds and then brings up in big red letters "overload". PLease help me with what to do. I am afraid to leave the adjustment screen that i am in. I am not exactly sure of the model I got it a long time ago from sears. It's 42" 16x9 HDTV. It has ultravision digital written on the front of it. Thanks for all the help.

[57U]

If it says overload, it is possible that the adjustment has not been done satisfactorily - ie you still have some curves in the lines.

Start over in the "medium" setting, then progress to fine, then try again.

If it still gives you the overload, it's possible the convergence ICs are shot. See the Sticky regarding Convergence Problems at the top of the Hitachi forum.

The model number should be on the back of the TV.

[MYDIGITAL69]

i was trying to align all the red lines but now i have a bunch of crazy lines all over the place is there a way to reset it to go back or do i have to do everything manuel till i straighten all the lines please advise

[Lone Ranger]

If you are in DCAM, then do a ROM read. It should reload either the factory DCAM convergence or the last DCAM convergence you saved to ROM. If you are referring to user convergence adjustment in 9 point or 117 point, try exiting and and selecting RESET. If your TV supports these functions...

[Lone Ranger]

i was trying to align all the red lines but now i have a bunch of crazy lines all over the place is there a way to reset it to go back or do i have to do everything manuel till i straighten all the lines please advise

Also, see this post over on keohi:

http://www.keohi.com/ibf/hdtv/index.php?act=ST&f=11&t=3118&

[57U]

If you have "S" lines, you should go into the coarse or medium settings to get the general convergence correct first, then progress to fine. That is outlined in the first set of instructions in this thread.

[MYDIGITAL69]

how will i be able to do a rom read when im in dcam please advise and thank you

[Lone Ranger]

It depends on your remote control. On mine, hitting the day/night button twice does a ROM read while the remote is in DCAM mode.

[MYDIGITAL69]

my model # is 53uwx10b do you think it would be the same remote

[Lone Ranger]

you're going to need to know how to get into DCAM mode for your set, if you don't already know. If you do know then its only a matter of finding the proper key on the remote keypad that executes a ROM read. First press usually puts "READ FROM ROM?" or similar on the screen in large green letters, second press of the same button executes the ROM read. I doubt if the remotes are the same, you will have to find out which button on your remote does the ROM read.

Stay away from the PIP button and probably also the PIP CH button, that may execute a ROM write, which would write your messed up lines to ROM and then you would be screwed.

[MYDIGITAL69]

I did the post to read from rom but I get a error 3 on it what is this please advise also since it gave me an error I started to do it manuel and almost got it just right but I can't move the red lines horizantel could the ic be damaged and need replacements please advis thanks

[lcaillo]

If the red will not move you either have a bad output IC or a problem in the DCU. Most likely the output. Unless you have a scope you need to just change the chip to find out. Chances are high that will solve your problem.

[MYDIGITAL69]

Which ic does anyone recomends to get also lcaillo the red moves up and down but not side to side thanks for your help

[lcaillo]

What is the model of your set? The fact that the red will not move horizontally indicates that one of the six channels of control is faulty. R,G,B x H,V. Each output IC has 3 channels. You may need to replace both of them if yours is one of the sets that needs the upgraded ICs.

[57U]

Please see the Sticky on "Convergence Problems" at the top of the Hitachi forum.

[MYDIGITAL69]

My model is 53ux10b also does anyone have a picture on where they are and if its hard to change them

[57U]

Please see post 123.

[lcaillo]

My model is 53ux10b also does anyone have a picture on where they are and if its hard to change them

I don't recall a 53ux10B, but if you mean 53UDX10B, then you need the kit from B&D mentioned in the sticky that has the two STK392-150 chips that are the upgrade for the STK392-110 that came in your unit. Be sure to change both, clean all the dried heat sink compound off and put a very thin layer of heat sink compound. The mistake that most make is to put too much heat sink compound on them. More is not better. Replace them, follow the procedures for convergence carefully for your set. Note that some sets vary in the layout of the controls on the remote.

[lcaillo]

Also, do NOT just buy the cheapest ICs that you can find! Buy them from B&D, Electronica, Acme, or get them by the Hitachi part number from an authorized Hitachi distributor. There are lots of cheap versions of the SFS STK series chips that may not be reliable. B&D is hard to beat and one of the most reliable vendors.

[MYDIGITAL69]

Do you have any website that I could buy it from and is there only two IC's in the whole set????

[lcaillo]

Read the sticky and do some seaching. I gave you the suppliers and the info is already posted in the sticky and many other posts here and elsewhere. Would you like me to come and change them for you, too? Google! If you can't (or are not diligent enough to) find the info at this point I suggest that you not try to repair your set and call a professional.

[monicaann]

I did the how to do DCAM Convergencethat's at the begining of this forum. I followed the directions to the tee, then when I did the last step for completion...it said there was an overload...and now when I use magic focus it says "Static Mode". Instead of Magic Focus. Did this mess my Magic Focus up? I'm worried :headb: Please HELP!!!

[57U]

Here's a thread on how to get out of static mode. You need to press the little blue button, but read the whole thread.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=3330

When you did your convergence, did you start in course or medium mode and then progress to fine? If you didn't, then the fine adjustment may not have been "close enough" to allow the settings to be saved.

Have you recently replaced the convergence ICs as discussed in the sticky on "Convergence problems"?

[monicaann]

57U,

I did it in course then my red verticle lines would not move. So I proceded to finish the adjustment to close it out. No I did not replace the convergence ICs, and I think that may be the problem.I did find that blue button. I did it, but then it was an "OVER FLOW!!" again. What should I do? Should I trash the T.V. it was made June 2002!!

[57U]

If you've read the sticky on Convergence Problems, the decision is yours. Can you fix yourself for under $100, do you pay someone some money to do the soldering? Do you pay someone to do the entire repair - say $300, or do you trash. The decision is yours.

[monicaann]

Could you tell me the part I need to order...the red line is the one giving me the problem. As I mentioned before, I tried to pull the colors together. And this is the one that doesn't move. :thankyou3

[57U]

There is no "part". As indicated in the Convergence Problems sticky you should replace both ICs, any problem resistors and if possible do a continuity check on the board itself in case there is any cracked solder.

[Gixxer Boy]

Would recommend you buy the upgrade kit which will include the two chips and resisters that are in the path.

[mikelets456]

I have the Hitachi/Aspect 51M200 and did the Dcam convergence. I did everything to the "T" and I saved it. However, I panicked when I realized my remote did not have a PIP CH button after I saved it. i tried many combinations and had no choice but to turn off the TV as suggested after the green dot. Well, I'm sure you know, but I lost Magic Focus.

Honestly, I never really used it, but now that the convergence is set the way I want...almost perfect, I'd love to revert to it. is there ANY way to get back MF?

[lcaillo]

Press PIP Mode then CC to initialize the sensors for MF. PIP CH is for other models.

[lcaillo]

Would recommend you buy the upgrade kit which will include the two chips and resisters that are in the path.

This is a good idea if you do not have an assortment of resistors. Make sure that you use parts from Hitachi or one of a very few reputable vendors of actual SFS ICs such as Electronica, B&D, or Acme.

[mikelets456]

Press PIP Mode then CC to initialize the sensors for MF. PIP CH is for other models.

Was this reply meant for me? If so,is this a way to get back Magic Focus? Would I have to go into Dcam, save to rom then hit PIP then CC?

[lcaillo]

Was this reply meant for me? If so,is this a way to get back Magic Focus? Would I have to go into Dcam, save to rom then hit PIP then CC?

Yes, sorry. Forgot to address your post specifically.

[mikelets456]

Yes, sorry. Forgot to address your post specifically.

Awesome!!! I'll do that when I get home. I was afraid that I overwrote MF when I saved to ROM...thanks, I really appreciate your help!!!!

[mikelets456]

BTW, I have been reading on the "blue button"....Is it behind the cover for the speakers or behind the black wood piece that's screwed on? I read that you power the TV on first then press the blue button. I've been reading through these posts but did not see any photos of where the button is, so I apologize for the NooB questions. I've read it's on the left side of the chassis.

Since I get "static mode" when I press MF, I guess the "blue button" is my only way to get into Dcam then hit PIP and CC and I should be good?

[57U]

Yes, it's behind the screwed on panel at the front. It's usually near the bottom left of the chassis. The button is pretty small, so look carefully.

[mikelets456]

I can get into "manual convergence" and do a convergence that way without any problems. Even though I get "static mode" when trying to do MF only, is it ok that I leave the TV in this condition and use it until I have to get into Dcam 6 months from now, or will things get screwed up in the meantime?

The picture looks really good and I don't have the time to go into Dcam after pressing the "blue button" and doing this all over again.

BTW, does hitting the Blue Button wipe out what you saved and revert back to OEM factory settings or would it keep what you last saved and fix MF?

Once again I apologize and have been researching this like crazy. Your help and time is GREATLY appreciated.

[57U]

If you are happy simply doing a manual convergence, then stick with that. It's certainly pretty quick and I did one for one of my clients with a Hitachi just yesterday instead of going into DCAM. You can touch up the manual convergence every few months and you'll be fine.

[mikelets456]

In the words of "Ace Ventura"..."Alrighty then..." I'll take care of it when the time comes.

[lcaillo]

Magic focus does not change anything you have done in manual convergence. All it does is reset to the last settings that you have done manually and stored. In order to do so you have to initialize the sensors using the data stored so that MF has a reference. What you store is always there until you clear it or store new data. Entering the service mode with the blue button or otherwise does not change the data stored. You have to perform a write or reset it to change it.

[mikelets456]

Thanks to Icaillo and 57U for taking the time to help me. I really appreciate your time and input. Have a great day.

[jschihuahua]

Well, I am on my third set of IC's over 3 years. When I put the last set in (they were upgraded to the 150's) I can not adjust the up and down on the blue (the Red and Green can be). When I stored the values, I got the overflow and am not stuck in the manual screen, I understand the blue button; but would like advice as to why the blue can not be adjusted up and down.

Thanks Jim

[lcaillo]

Are you checking and/or changing the resistors? What supplier are you using for your chips? If you cannot adjust the blue vertically, then you probably still have an output problem. Occasionally there will be a problem in the DCU or the connnections to the main board, but this is rare.

[jschihuahua]

None of the resistors appear discolored, I compared the 3 set of resistors and get similar readings. Quite frankly, I am not sure of the supplier of the IC's (I bought them over EBAY. . . ) Would you recomend replacing the IC closest to the blue section of the board?

[lcaillo]

Bought them on Ebay? Unless it was from one of the vendors that I recommended there is a good chance they were not original Sanyo parts. Buy them from B&D, Acme, Tritronics (not their TT- generics), or Electronica.

The resistors come in a kit from Hitachi and this is the best way to buy the chips, IME. They are now supplying the kits with the best chip to replace these, the STK394-160, which replaces the STK392-150. Tritronics has them in stock, last time I checked.

[jschihuahua]

Well, I found the problem, it was a cold solder joint. I now can adjust everything; but now the problem is that when I run the Magic Focus, the blue bows out in the center. I adjust it back in and then it bows out again. Any hints on this one?

Thanks

[lcaillo]

Uh, try adjusting the convergence? Read the FAQ or the Hitachi Convergence Guide.

[jschihuahua]

I adjust the convergence and everything is fine. When I save the settings, the process of that is like the auto focus, changes the blue only.

[czar99]

I have tried the manual convergence but when I press Magic Focus the grid comes up but when I press it again instead of saying ?exit? it exits Magic Focus and everything stops there I am back at the NTSC Signal. Any help?

I have a 61UWX10B.

[cmeflygtp]

I am getting ready to replace the two IC's and I was wondering if there is anything else that I should replace while I have her apart?? Any comments will help thanks.

[57U]

Resistors, check board for cracks. See the following thread - post 1 has a summary.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=28929

[TKS]

Hello,
After spending half a day reading all this good information, and getting into the manual convergence mode, I can't move around the grid to change it using the 2,4,5,6 buttons on the remote. It sits in the middle, blinking and I can adjust using the joystick but that's the only one I can adjust. What am I doing wrong to get to the other points?
Thanks.

[Mattymatio]

How can I adjust the convergence on a Hitachi 65' (65G500)? There is a redish blue spot on the top roght hand corner and green color across themiddle of the screen.

[lost_sailor]

I followed the instructions to the letter to try and manually converge my set. My yellows and blues were off. Magic Focus wasn't so magic.

When I pulled up the grid, the blue vertical lines were WAY off. When I tried to manipulate them, there was some flashing, but no lines would move. Fine, whatever then. I aligned everything else, went through the aforementioned routine in the 1st post and began initializing it, and when it goes through the magic focus routine near the end, it stops on blue for a while, then OVER FLOW! pops up in red.

This can't be good, and I'm afraid to cut off the unit with that on the screen, and I can only get back to the grid.

Anyone familiar with these problems? Any suggestions would be great!

[Ratman]

Perform a search in the forum using the keyword overflow. Here's the first "hit" as an example:
http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?p=187845&highlight=overflow#post187845

[metroid76]

I got this to work on my Hitachi 53uwx10ba and it will let me adjust all of the red and blue lines but i can only adjust the horizontal green. if i try to adjust the vertical green lines to line them up it just sits there. is this a issue with the programming of th tv or do you think i may need to replace the convergence realted parts for the green. Any help would be appreiciated

[57U]

Probably a convergence issue. Please see the following thread on the topic:

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=28929

ICs, resistors, possible cracked solder.

[fmatthews]

i did the DCAM convergence but could not find the PIP CH button. I lost the MAGIC Focus. Is there any way to reinitialize it?

[lcaillo]

It depends on your set. There are different procedures for different models. You need to refer to the service manual for your set rather than generic Hitachi service procedures that you find online. They are often incomplete or wrong for specific models.

[57U]

This is outlined in post 1 of this thread. If the remote doesn't have the appropriate buttons, then you can't do the DCAM. There are about 3 procedures outlined for various models in post 1. If yours is one of those models, it'll work. If it's not, then it won't and you should get a service manual, as mentioned above.

[tjsilva]

I did some adjustments in DCAM mode but when I initialized Magic Focus I got an overflow error. Now I can't get the grid back. I will have to hit the blue button. Any ideas why I would get an overflow error?

[57U]

You usually get an overflow error if the convergence has not been done well - i.e. the lines are not straight or converged well enough to go into memory.

It's usually best to go into the "medium" mode first then to straighten the lines and then do the fine adjustment.


Sometimes stuff just happens too...

[Night Scene]

I'm new here, so I appologize if I'm not in the correct place. I was given an HD. Previous owners had 2-STK 392-180 Convergence IC’s replaced a couple of years ago. I went into the alignment screen. I can adjust the red lines but not the Blue lines will not move. Any ideas? Thanks!

[Ratman]

Possibly bad IC's and/or resistors (again) as outlined in previous posts. (See Post 165)

[RockinMN]

Hello,
After spending half a day reading all this good information, and getting into the manual convergence mode, I can't move around the grid to change it using the 2,4,5,6 buttons on the remote. It sits in the middle, blinking and I can adjust using the joystick but that's the only one I can adjust. What am I doing wrong to get to the other points?
Thanks.

I'm having the same issue, did you figure out how to move around the grid.

[unspoiled]

I recently ( Friday ) replaced the convergence chips on my Hitachi 43UWX10B. Thanks to all who have provided the help for that. Was a breeze once I learned how to solder.

The picture quality is good now but I when I view a picture in smooth wide mode or normal mode, the edges on the left and right are curved. Do I need to do the manual convergence or is their another issue I need to address?

[57U]

You need to do the DCAM convergence. People either use an overlay to which you converge the lines, or they attach strings to their TV at the appropriate places. You first converge the green to the overlay/string and then converge the red/blue to the green.

[flytrainer]

I replaced the ICs and the appropriate resistors on my H53UDX10B, and now it needs a convergence adjustment, but I cannot enter the DCAM mode. I did the double pressing of the "Magic Focus" plus Status/Info button bit, and also tried the little blue button method, but the set just returns to the NTSC mode and never reaches DCAM.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for allowing me to get into an alignment mode?

By the way I did get a 53UDX10BA Service manual and it is NOT the same as the 53UWX10B Service Manual. I found that the difference between servicing information, at least as far as the convergence corrections/adjustments is the Chassis designation. The 53UDX10B has the DP15 (DP15E) chassis. I dont know what chassis the 53UWX10B uses.