Philips 17 and 20 PF8946 Component?

[lugebob]

I WAS interested in purchasing the small Philips flat screen for the foot of the bed but seem to have run into a tech problem that the sales crew at Circuit City and Best Buy could not answer.....
Both the 17 and 20 inch are advertised HD Ready Monitor.
In both stores the Philips TV's were hooked up to the RF cable distribution, while the rest of the brand sets 20inch and under were hooked to component cabling with them showing the typical HD programing for display. Obviously the Philips with RF connections showed poorly compaired to the other sets. I ask both store saleman to show me the Philips with the hd component hooked up for a better comparison.. niether store could get it to work... hooked up to thier component distribution the Philips sets would not sync.... the sales force then just shrugged their shoulders and walked away... argg. I fiddled with the menu settings with no luck Does anyone have a clue why the philips models wont sync in the store???

Maybe I should just skip the Philips???

Bob

[57U]

Does HDTV make any difference at 17 or 20"? I mean, most people don't see the benefit of HDTV until you get about twice that size. I'm not saying you need to get a 34-40" TV, just that a 20" HDTV is almost an oxymoron.

[lugebob]

It should be better than the RF connection... My question was why HD don't work through the componant jacks or does it??
bob

[Ratman]

No HD with RF connection unless the TV has a built in ATSC tuner and receiving an HD program.

Next alternative to get HD, external source connected to the monitor using component cables.

From there... RGBhv, DVI, HDMI.

[lugebob]

I am typically not an A**hole, but does anyone listen / read the entire question before they talk/ post????????

how else do I word this.... HD signal thru component jacks.......

[Ratman]

Yes HD can be obtained through "component jacks". As was stated previously.

If we cannot answer you question to your satisfaction, perhaps your question(s) is unclear or perhaps not properly conveying your point.

Being new to the forum, you may want to reconsider your attitude if you are asking for help.

EDIT:
Just read the specs... it's not an HD monitor. I'll bet you that's why it didn't work.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Philips-20--LCD-HDTV-Monitor--20PF8946-/sem/rpsm/oid/97423/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

[57U]

That's pretty funny. It's an EDTV and neither store (or customer) knew it!.

[Ratman]

Kind of ironic...
The store help gets paid.
The forum help gets abused... for free.

Go figure!

[lugebob]

I really apolgize to you guys for the heat that was not deserved. I mean it. I was just frustrated to no end with the salesforce in both stores. Blank stares and shrugged shoulders just set me off. I even asked them if there was someone they could calll to find out and they said NOPE. My confusion was part the big label on the front that says HDTV and the specs for the 17 inch

http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/97422/originURLEncoded/http%253A%252F%252Fwww.circuitcity.com%252Frpsm%252FcatOid%252F-12869%252FN%252F20012866%252B20012867%252B20012869%252B4294966741%252Flink%252Fref%252Frpem%252Fccd%252Fcategorylist.do/rpem/ccd/productDetailSpecification.do#tabs

go figure HDTV does not really mean HDTV.... wasn't my point anyway.. I just wanted to see the performance using the component inputs...and 3 sets did not work while the cheaper samsung next to it did using the same cables and source. No matter what the CVI input just displayed an out of sync picture.

I would not bother so much but my wife said this is the one she wanted for her B-DAY....

Thanks and I apolgize again.

BOB

Any Suggestions for a 17 to 20 inch FLAT Screen for the foot of the bed.. HD not required, but component and RF IS.

[57U]

The 17" is an HDTV - it's 768 x 1280, which is the equivalent of 768P. (every incoming signal would be converted to that format). It should work with an HD signal via the component video inputs.

Perhaps that's why the price is similar despite it being 30% smaller.

Based on your last sentence, the 20" would work too, provided you fed it a 480P signal, like from a DVD player. It doesn't accept 720P or 1080i (HD) signals.

You may wish to browse through some of the FAQs if you haven't already.

[Ratman]

Well something's fouled up somewhere...
both the 17 and 20" has a resolution of 1280x768, but one states ED and the other HD.

Also... lugebob, you do know that the RF input (tuner) is only analog (NTSC) and will not receive digital (ATSC) HD channels, right?

In order to do so, you will need an external HD decoder. With that... please note that in the specs, the 17" has two sets of component inputs, the 20" only has two. So, if you want to use and external tuner and a progressive scam DVD player, only the 17" will accomodate both. Also, take notice that the spec for "HD component video inputs", it says "info unavailable", which would lead me to believe that these are not 'wideband' inputs.

This is all contradictory.

[Ratman]

Here's more info:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002KQR0U/ref=pd_sbs_e_1/104-7347798-1399167?v=glance&s=electronics

Well I don't know... I've looked at over a dozen sites. Some say the 20" is HD-ready, some say ED-ready. I even saw one that said it an an HDMI input. So... good luck!

[wkrasl]

...

I would not bother so much but my wife said this is the one she wanted for her B-DAY....

Any Suggestions for a 17 to 20 inch FLAT Screen for the foot of the bed.. HD not required, but component and RF IS.

See my post to a different thread same forum on 17PF8946 vs 20PF8946. I think you might want the 17PF9946. That's what I will buy for a kitchen wall mount as soon as I find a local retailer.

To play it safe, I bought my wife a gold gecko pendant (we are in Hawaii with half a dozen running wild in the house as unofficial pets) just in case I don't find the TV for her birthday next week.

[Davemusic]

I know this thread has been quiet for a while, but I recently got a Philips 15PF8946 and the only way to display HDTV is to use the pc VGA input. They provide adapter cables to convert Component(RGB) to VGA. The component input on the tv only accepts 480i(at least as far as I can tell).

Dave

[Sidious]

Something is certainly "fouled" up with Philips HDTVs. I posted the following thread (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=13429) re: Philips sets and just had to buy one to find out. I am very pleased with my purchase, however, the component inputs are quite finicky. The first set of components slated for "HD input" (also considered PC input with a VGA port next to it) work perfectly with my Comcast HD box set at 1080i output. The picture is astounding!! Now there are a second set of component inputs labeled AV2/CVI. I tried to connect the Moto box to these and they did not work. It looked as if the picture was scrambled from all channels. I did not mess with the output of the box, but perhaps if I had set it to 720 or 480, it may have worked...I'm not sure. The OM is also no help as it does not talk about resolutions for each input. It did however "recommend" an HD source for the HD input and a DVD player with component outputs for the CVI input...

:guiny:

PS: on a side note, I also think that the Philips set I own is NOT 16:9, but some other aspect ratio. Some of the true HD broadcasts look a bit "thin" and the HD input allows for a "widescreen" stretch which makes it look better...

[Ratman]

Now there are a second set of component inputs labeled AV2/CVI. .

Does "CVI" denote Component Video Interlaced?

[Davemusic]

Mine only has the one set of components plus the VGA. I also got the scrambled picture you are taliking about with the cable box set to 1080i and even a DVD player set to 480p. Interlaced is all I could get to work with the component input. The VGA accepts everything so I have a VGA video switcher to switch between cable box and PC since I also use it as a monitor. Right now I'm using the S-Video input (AV2, I believe) for a DVD player. AV1 (a composite connection) and the CVI are the other inputs besides coax cable.

Dave

[Sidious]

Does "CVI" denote Component Video Interlaced?

Good question, does it?? If so, what does it mean to me...only 480i can go through it?? If that is the case than what good is it?? Aren't composite and coax connections already 480i??

Just curious...

Thanks!

:guiny:

[Ratman]

Good question, does it??
Actually... it was rhetorical.

If so, what does it mean to me...only 480i can go through it?? If that is the case than what good is it??

Yes... only 480i can go "into" it. Component can provide a better quality than composite and S-video.

Aren't composite and coax connections already 480i??

Yup... but I'd always choose component or S-video over composite.

[g4love]

I picked up the 17PF8946 yesterday for a small bedroom.

I took it down to the basement and put the 42" CRT out of commision for a while. I hooked it up to the goodies (DST-3000 HD rec., DVD player, & HT etc.) and it worked quite nicely.
For our setup, we used the CVI input for the DVD player (the VGA cable adapts to component cables), and the HD inputs for HD. The picture came through on both inputs and toggling between the two was no problem.

Keep in mind, if you don't plan on hooking it up to a HT system, you will need a RED/WHITE RF cable to receive sound.

Considering we wanted widescreen, we think it's a solid option at that price point.

Directv is coming out Friday to wire the bedroom so I'll provide periodic updates, but out of the box, we are quite pleased!

[Sidious]

For our setup, we used the CVI input for the DVD player

Do you have the DVD player set to progressive scan or interlaced?? Have you attempted to hook up the HD STB to this "CVI" input?? If so, what were your results??

(the VGA cable adapts to component cables)

Please explain what you mean here...I don't understand.

The picture came through on both inputs and toggling between the two was no problem.

When I have my TV set to the "HD" input and turn it off, it will not come directly back to this input when I turn it back on. I actually have to wait about 5 seconds until it will do anything and once it does finally "turn on" it switches to AV2. I then have to push my HD button to get it to that input. Have you found this to be true with your set?? It's not really a problem, just more of an inconvenience. It also takes my 57" Sony a few seconds to "turn on", but at least it defaults to the last input it was on...

Considering we wanted widescreen, we think it's a solid option at that price point.

Have you noticed that the set may not be a true 16:9 AR?? There is an option to actually stretch the HD image a bit. I think these sets may be 14:9, as I have seen them advertised like that...

:guiny:

[g4love]

Sidious, I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. Let me address each of your questions/issues in order:

(1) I do not own a progressive scan dvd player.

(2) I did not try connecting the STB to the CVI input.

(3) I connected the "female" end of the VGA cable to one of the "male" ends of the component cables. The other "male" end was connected to the DVD player.

(4) I did not notice the "turn-on, turn-off" problem you speak of. Maybe I didn't turn it off in HD mode when testing it, but I'll look for it now.

(5) I have not seen where this particular model number was advertised as 14:9, but I would love to see a link if you know of one. If it is truly 1.55:1., I might have to consider taking it back.

Oh, and I was wrong about that RF business!

I only set it up this way to see what the image looked like because I was too lazy to go back to the store. I thought I had an extra set of component cables so I didn't buy any with the TV. I don't expect to use the VGA cable in this way going forward.

[g4love]

Here is an quick update on my 2-week experienced with the 17":

1--As others have commented, it is not a true widescreen monitor. The AR is probably more like 1:55-1:66:1. Not a problem for me considering how often the set will be used.

2--Nice picture: it displays a nice range of colors and while the blacks aren't incredibly deep, they do the job.

3--Sound: just okay, but to a degree, that should be expected with a flat panel. Plus, it doesn't seem prudent to buy a monitor this size and hook it up to your subwoofer, etc... However, if you don't, you do need a "Y" cable (not included) if you want sound to go with the HD picture.

4--The remote is as weak as any I've seen; they should be ashamed, but I could even live with that since I could always find another remote.

Okay, so why am I returning it?

Because EVERY TIME I make an adjustment i.e. volume, sleep timer, a blue HD bar appears in the upper left portion of the screen. No big deal I thought, I'll just hit the exit button on the remote. Wrong! The only way to get rid of it is to turn the monitor off and turn it back on. That's a deal-breaker.

I called Philips and the CSR has heard of this problem, but she couldn't tell me whether it was a bug or something else.